Been meaning to follow up with grade 3, but since we lost half the summer to lockdown it will probably wait til next year. It is located in Glencoe, not far from Fort William and is the most accessible of the ‘big three’ ridges. I seem to remember quite a nasty step on a damp slab/ramp even before you got to the col ... > You can avoid the final chimney section to the right, or step to the right higher in the chimney to bypass the direct finish. fine scrambling (quite exposed, & tricky) but sadly v. Depends on how confident you are. I’d also disagree, Gordon- it’s a juggy romp above the initial section, but way too steep and sustained for grade 1. Maybe you can vent at some of the posters there. It is situated in Glencoe and from the tops you get phenomenal views across the Glen. > Yes, it's a brilliant day doing something like Hope followed by Lazarus then that peculiar Continuation wall, then a not very obvious descending scramble into the Nameless Cwm followed by the Cneifion Arete. The difficulties are short, but unexpectedly spicy for a grade 1 (and would probably get a 2 if it were any longer or more exposed). Though obviously the answer is to do as you’ve done, and do them all! > Sorry, Gordon, but I also disagree. Day 3 is a travelling and rest day. and indeed that was part of the motivation for starting this thread, to get suggestions for routes of a similar quality to the classics that I might not have heard of- so suggestions welcome, I won’t tell anyone... ;-). I did a scramble on Ben Hope last year, can’t remember what it was called but it was a grade 3 I think and was outstanding. an observation- Wales seems to have the best grade 1s, Scotland the best grade 2s, grade 3s more spread out. This just left Liathach left to complete, unfortunately for the past two years the weather and conditions didn’t align while I was in the area. brooess. I've always found it about 3 or 4 times as scary soloing on my own. The Aonach Eagach is usually regarded as the most difficult horizontal 'scrambling' ridge in mainland Scotland, though it vies with Liathach (and, in winter, An Teallach) for this title. Thanks Iain- inspirational stuff! Great holds and wild exposure. I was with one of my sisters and we'd gone up by Hall's Fell and on top - being young and keen and stupid - I suggested Sharp Edge as a way down. Geographically speaking, the Aonach Eagach is a simple ridge running roughly west-east. Snag about that for me is that when I was doing Eyes to the Hills I was superfit and going very well, so it's very hard to judge. We got down without any mishaps but I can remember it feeling a bit nervy for a while. But still, apologies anyway, as I never set out to offend anyone. North Buttress is right at the top end of grade 3 (3S). Unfortunately for the past two years the weather and conditions didn't align while I was in the area. Most of them. I have to agree. There was an alpine horn gathering going on in the valley when I came down from the Mürtschenstock. I would add Cyfrwy Arete (Grade 3S) to the list for a full-on mountaineering adventure, especially with the Table Direct start, although this being a V Diff falls outside scrambling grades. But, I didn't expect anything much from Fiacaill Ridge so it took me by surprise a bit. I've always found it about 3 or 4 times as scary soloing on my own. Grade 2/Mod? The Aonach Eagach is a rocky ridge lying to the north of Glen Coe in the Scottish Highlands, boasting two Munro summits. The first bit of Cneifion Arete is diff, the rest of it is around grade 3. The ones that have got the ideal combination of sound rock, length, sustained interest and spectacular situations. Famed as the narrowest ridge on the British mainland (though Liathach and An Teallach must run it close), the Aonach Eagach gives a thrilling and spectacular traverse for keen scramblers, linking the … It's 3 stars for the sheer grandeur of the experience. anyway An teallach and Liathach, Skye, Castle ridge on the Ben, angels ridge, and after thought Arete all obviously need a mention. If he is upset by it, I’ll ask the mods to delete the thread. Mod is a little generous IMO - classic scrambling terrain. I expected to find Afterthought Arete initmidating solo so it didn't really surprise me that it was. I accept that my memory of the main/upper part of the Cneifion Arete is hazy, though I've done it twice. In his book “Scrambles in Lochaber”, local climber Noel Williams warns that there are no other ridges in the area that are “so narrow and so difficult to escape from once committed. Its traverse is comparable with that of An Teallach or the Aonach Eagach in similar conditions. http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/info/forums.html, https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/cam_crags_borrowdale-2477/cam_crag_ridge-50974, https://www.ukhillwalking.com/articles/destinations/britains_best_grade_1_scrambles-7637, https://www.ukhillwalking.com/articles/features/britains_best_grade_2_scrambles-9609, https://www.ukclimbing.com/photos/dbpage.php?id=348991. I'd have said it was a scramble not a climb but getting to it in the first place isn't easy. The Aonach Eagach is usually regarded as the most difficult horizontal 'scrambling' ridge in mainland Great Britain, though it vies with Liathach (and, in winter, An Teallach) for this title. The Aonach Eagach is a spectacular narrow ridge running high above the pass of Glencoe. The topic ‘Aonach Eagach vs Crib Goch – winter traverse’ is closed to new replies. Forcan Ridge? Come scrambling mainland GB's big three ridges might in just four days - An Teallach, Liathach and the famous Aonach Eagach Aonach Eagach is consistently ranked as the best ridge walk and scramble in the UK and in the top few across the world by National Geographic (allegedly). Thanks Iain- some great suggestions there. Ben Nevis via the CMD Arete. Re north buttress- yes, checked my logbook- can it really be 15 years since I did it...? Mustn't forget the stars! Following the crack leads to an interesting position for a Grade 3 scramble! Pete Short. Aonach Eagach is a grade 2 scrambling route. It’s pretty straightforward, but if you fall you might die ♂️, > U can’t solo it that’s almost impossible, The LGP up the constitution hill arete > CA. The Aonach Eagach is usually regarded as the most difficult horizontal 'scrambling' ridge in mainland Scotland, though it vies with Liathach (and, in winter, An Teallach) for this title. Ben Nevis via the CMD Arete. We had a great day and despite 4 seasons in one day weather we still had some fantastic views over the Aonach Eagach Ridge. As you say, CYP Arete is also a beauty with the Parson’s Nose start and always feels more serious to me than Cneifion Arete. I would suggest that An Teallach is a more difficult and more serious day out than the Aonach Eagach, or Lliathach, especially in winter. A ten-strong all-Nepali team has achieved the coveted first winter ascent of K2 (8611m), the last of the fourteen eight-thousand-metre peaks to be summitted in the winter season. They spent the day in Scott's capable hands and by the looks of things had pretty good weather for their big day out. Beinn Damh. Dan Bailey - Feb 10, 2004 10:40 am - Hasn't voted Untitled Comment. Wouldn’t even try, after reading these... https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/info/search.php?forum=0&dates=1&name=&topic=Yr+esgair&body=&id=0. The traverse seems like it may be a good compromise for us between walking and climbing. ;-), Grade 1 + grade 2+ and 3s have been a thing for ages Steve Ashton uses it in his Snowdonia book and also most people would say tower ride is a grade 3 maybe 3s and cuilin ridge is a 3s with vd climbing in it, and I get what you mean about someone who done cnefion Arete does cuilin ridge will find it hard cuz that’s true but that’s because all scrambles and climbs are different like someone who only done grade 1s decides to go for a grade 2 let’s say they do something easy say Idwal Buttress then they think that was fun and easy and then they look for another grade 2 and they see byrants gully then they think that was verry hard even tho it was the same grade. Kilometres of absorbing scrambling, stunning views and traversing two Munro's. Liathach has four listed "Tops" in the Munro Tables, Meall Dearg at 3133 feet (955 m) is particularly awkwardly placed as it stands off the main ridge at the end of the Northern Pinnacles which run north from Mullach an Rathain. Thanks CA- honestly, no malice intended. In his book "Scrambles in Lochaber", local climber Noel Williams warns that there are no other ridges in the area that are "so narrow and so difficult to escape from once committed. The Llech Ddu Spur. Went back after a look online to find the route and completed it, happy days. Even after the steep juggy first pitch (which I agree is probably Diff) it is sustained and very exposed if you keep to the right edge and a fall on it would be very serious. You could have a thousand likes, but its wrong. I am not a big fan as there are loads of quite tricky down climbs. It is also often prone to Inversions in … I've only done it in full east-west, but I once came up from the north side and turned east, and the awkward down-scramble on Am Bodach is certainly easier in ascent. The three possible finishes are on steeper but more broken rock, so with some grass and the odd loose bit. Unfortunately for the past two years the weather and conditions didn't align while I was in the area. Clach Glas - Bla Bheinn is the best grade 3 I've ever done. The Aonach Eagach is one of the best ridge walks in Scotland rivaling Liathach, An Teallach and the Skye Ridge. When I mentioned having gone down Sharp Edge in the wet he just pulled a face and said something like: Hmm. Mountains similar to or like Liathach. This just left Liathach. (Most people seemed to agree with the grades I gave in my Cuillin book for many years, before more detailed guide books became available.). Crib Goch is easier than both the Aonach Eagach and Liathach in winter. The crazy pinnacles Aonach eagach csa_adventure. The same suggested when it was featured in Trail magazine, many years ago when Trail was good and featured rock climbing (even ice climbing at one point...), rather than the same recycled walks round the usual suspects in Lake District. The Aonach Eagach is normally tackled from the Glen Coe (south) side. Please help UKClimbing continue to provide varied and free content by becoming an official UKC Supporter. Did it years back en route to Beinn Mheadhoin. Better than curved ridge. When I got to the superb grassy ledge at the top of that, I had to take a bit of breather for about 10 minutes and to wait for my heart beat to return to normal, yes, i was going to mention that not least for the splendid view of the great prow but it's a Diff;), https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/bla_bheinn-684/clach_glas_-_blabheinn_traverse_summer-40828. You are a bully, naming a person in an OP is no go. Are the rum/Harris/gairloch ones on clean rock? Coast. The OMC trip to the Alex Macintyre hut at Onich was blessed with some half decent weather (at least for the Saturday!) Thanks to Gillian for all her knowledge, technical skills and great chat. The classic traverse will always again more votes, because so few people have done differing lines, but the other two routes to the summit of Clach Glas in their own way are equally phenomenal....but I'm equally as bad as i've done Clach Glas Blavern over a dozen times, but the others only once! It includes two Munros - Meall Dearg and Sgorr nam Fiannaidh.. UKC logbooks gives it low/mid Grade 3 but mid/high Mod.. yes, about 4 times. Still difficult is accurately grading rock climbs between Mod and Hard Severe. Mind you, I had changed into big boots by then! O ver the past few years I have completed three out of the four classic mountaineering ridges in Scotland in winter- An Teallach, Aonach Eagach and the Cuillin Ridge. an "alpine" finish to a route up the Idwal Slabs, Holly Tree Wall and Continuation Wall. AEITB is a person, think how they may feel.You are a bully, you should be ashamed. Liathach is one of the more worthy targets of this pastime akin for example to an ascent of Crestone Needle or some such peak in Colorado. All these fabulous ‘achs’ have bags of exposure and amazing views to back up their claims, but An Teallach perhaps has the edge on its fellow leviathans. There's a theory that this is harder than Jack's Rake (there was a discussion on here years ago about it possibly being "the hardest thing in Wainwright") - it's mainly just messy scree but with an awkward reachy chockstone move near the top - we arrived at this to find that someone prior to us had felt it serious enough to have tied on, as there was some tat in a crack. The Aggy ridge was undoubtedly my scariest day in the hills, and I saw a guy fall off, needing rescued. Mar 31, 2017 - Famed as the narrowest ridge on the British mainland (though Liathach and An Teallach must run it close), the Aonach Eagach gives a thrilling and spectacular traverse for keen scramblers, linking the Munros of Meall Dearg and Sgorr nam Fiannaidh. You can show your support in one of two ways; both come with rewards, and one includes discounted products from Rockfax. Guided groups often go for the first option. The summit can be identified by: cairn Additional Notes: All the walks up Aonach Eagach on Mud and Routes can be seen above. Hear pronunciation Press to hear pronunciation. I’ve commented ‘more a scramble than a climb’, I assume I meant that the ‘hands on rock’ bits are part of a larger whole, with steep walking in between- as opposed to easy rock climbs eg ordinary route at idwal slabs, middlefell buttress, milestone ordinary (ok the descents from some of those are not really straightforward walks, but all the same...). Weather and Hill Conditions: mwis: Northwest Highlands – … Bear in mind the potential difficulty of escape from the crest of Liathach. Feb 26, 2015 - Famed as the narrowest ridge on the British mainland (though Liathach and An Teallach must run it close), the Aonach Eagach gives a thrilling and spectacular traverse for keen scramblers, linking the Munros of Meall Dearg and Sgorr nam Fiannaidh. if you’re in the mood to stick up for people, not that I think CA needs it, there are some posters over on the other thread who you might be better taking to task. This is right at the start, and if you manage this, then the rest of the ridge shouldn't cause any problems. If it had been to mock, yes. Photo: Getty. Grade 2: Aonach Eagach, Forcan Ridge, Ghreadaidh traverse, Liathach, AnTeallach (avoiding the Bad Step but including the rest of the ridge), Grade 3: Clogwyn y Person, Ill Crag from Little Narrowcove, Curved Ridge, RH Slabs (An Groban, Gairloch), Ganu Mor Slabs (Foinaven). BTW. wish i'd known the hornli ridge was a grade 3 when i was exploring the lower ridge on an inter-rail trip in my youth- may have gone for the solo,.. Second time taking shots for my book Eyes to the Hills. Often called the most difficult scramble ridge in mainland Britain however I personally think Liathach gives it a good run for its money. Email Address: (you will also be emailed a Cc: [carbon copy] of this message). The Gillaval Dubh routes are on excellent gneiss, clean but with more grassy bits than RH Slabs (around 80% of its 250m is rock). 10.12.2017 18:30 - Channel 4: Britains Wildest Weather ( Ben Nevis ) 19.3.2018 20:00 - Channel 5: Winter Road Rescue / Winter Mountain Rescue was that the chimney steepens and narrows at the top to a chockstone about the size of a football. Our community does not do this. massive route by Lakeland standards), Mod - North Buttress, Dolmen Ridge (that steep pitch is never a 'scramble'), Dubh Ridge (the best scramble in the country hands down, a contender for the best long day out at any grade), Castle Ridge, A'Chir, Afterthought Arete, Rum Cuillin done direct (mostly just a walk of course), Cneifion Arete, Diff - Tower Ridge, NE Ridge Aonach Beag, Clach Glas-Bla Bheinn, Pinnacle Ridge Gillean, Clogwyn y Person Arete with a start up the nose (otherwise it deserves to go into the grade 3 list), Cyfrwy Arete via Table Direct, round of Coire Lagan with Kings Chimney included, I'm bound to have forgotten loads of others. Because this ridge is normally covered in snow when people climb it, the vegetation and rocks have little wear and it made me think of other more famous ridge like the Aonach Eagach, Liathach and Ledge Route, as to what they would have been like for the 1st ascents. 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